Saturday 5 June 2021

The Mad Sultan Ibrahim: Harem, Eunuchs', Silk Rope, Golden Cage, "Sweet Lump of Sugar", and Death

The Ottoman Empire was one of the greatest powers that world has ever known. With territory spanning 3 continents and a reign of over 600 years the “House of Osman” was not to be trifled with. The empire was ruled by the all powerful Sultan, the king of kings, the khan of khans, he ruled by decree.

 

Some Sultans were warriors, others thoughtful poets. But of the 36 or so Sultan’s that ruled during the empire, there is one who stands out to both the Turkish people and historians alike as…different from the rest. Sultan Ibrahim I, more commonly known as Ibrahim the mad. 


But to do justice to the story of Ibrahim the Mad, we must first tell the story of his mother, the beautiful Greek concubine Maypeyker Kösem, and his father, the compassionate Sultan Ahmed.

 

Kösem Sultan: (1589 –1651) known as Mâh-Peyker Sultan. She was one of the most powerful women in Ottoman history, Favorite Consort and wife of Ottoman Sultan Ahmed I (1603–1617).

 

She achieved power and influenced the course of the Ottoman Empire through her consort Sultan Ahmet I, then through her sons Murad IV (1623–40) and Ibrahim I (1640–48) and finally through her minor grandson Mehmed IV (1648–87).

Ottoman Sultan Ibrahim I

 Kösem Sultan was of Greek origin, the daughter of a priest on the island of Tinos.

Her maiden name was Anastasia. She was sent to Constantinople the capital of the Ottoman Empire by Bosna Beylerbeyi where she was sold at the age of fifteen to the harem of Sultan Ahmed I.

 

Kösem Sultan

Her name was changed after her capture to Mahpeyker (Moon-Shaped), and later by Sultan Ahmed I to Kösem. She was transferred to the old palace on the death of Sultan Ahmed in 1617, but returned as Valida Sultan (Queen Mother), when her son Murat IV was installed in 1623.

Mehmed mother--Turhan Hatice

It was Mehmed's mother Turhan Hatice who proved to be Kösem's arch-rival.

It is rumored that Turhan ordered Kösem's assassination when she heard that Kösem was said to be plotting Mehmed's removal and replacement by another grandson with a more pliant mother.


Furthermore, some have speculated that Kösem was strangled with a curtain by the chief black eunuch of the harem, Tall Süleyman.

Sultan Ahmaed Majid (Blue Masjid)--Istanbul


After her death her body was taken from Topkapi to the Old Palace (Eski Sarayı) and then buried in the mausoleum of her husband Ahmad I. 

Kösem was renowned for her charity work and for freeing her slaves after 3 years of service. When she died the people of Constantinople observed three days of mourning.

Mahperkey Kösem Sultan had 8 children, 4 boys and 4 girls.

Male-Murad IV, Prince Süleyman, Prince Kasım, İbrahim I.

Girl-Ayşe Sultan, Fatma Sultan, Gevherhan Sultan, Hanzade Sultan

 

When the Sultan died a sort of deadly musical chairs for would-be Sultans began.

 

Often, the son who was closest to the throne at the time of the Sultans death, literally the one nearest in physical distance from the throne, would become the new Sultan by jumping into the chair and declaring himself so.

 

Upon ascending to the throne, the triumphant new Sultan would shout his first decree, usually something like “All my brothers are to be immediately killed.”

 

Kösem Sultan

An army of deadly eunuchs would then be sent forth to do just that. All brothers, including infant children, and mothers carrying as of yet unborn brothers were quickly eliminated.

 

(These eunuch assassins were curious in that, in addition to having been castrated, they had also had their eardrums poked out, so as not to hear the screams of their victims, and their tongues split, so that they could not speak of their dastardly deeds.

The preferred method for royal fratricide was strangulation by silk rope…a classy way to go at least.)

 

Royal fratricide was the standard and regarded as simply part of the bargain.

So far the policy of brother killing was working out great. But it had one major drawback; it nearly wiped out the Osman family line. Once the Sultan had killed all his brothers it was up to him to carry on the Osman name, a risky business.

 

All of this changed in 1590 with the rule of Ahmed I. He is well known for commissioning the building of the the amazing Sultan Ahmed Mosque, aka the Blue Mosque. In fact, the entire old town of Istanbul is also known by his name, as the Sultan Ahmet district.

 

Ahmed was a kind ruler, and was very much in love with a young and beautiful Greek girl named Maypeyker Kösem. Kösem, however, was more then just beautiful, she was cunning, brilliant and hungry for power.

 

Ahmed was the first Sultan to break with the practice of royal fratricide. Ahmed had grown up with a slightly retarded brother named Mustafa. Ahmed was well known for his compassion, and when it came time to have his mildly retarded brother Mustafa done in, he just couldn’t do it.

 

Instead the childish Mustafa lived with his grandmother in a single room of the Harem known as the Kafe or the Golden Cage. A special room, it had windows only on the second floor, and a slot for delivering food. Though it was beautifully decorated on the inside, it was merely an exquisite prison cell.

Sultan Ahmet I


For the first time in Ottoman history a royal brother was spared the silk rope and allowed to live. This simple act of kindness was to change the way the entire Osman line of succession worked and Mustafa would be the first of many royal brothers who would spent most of their lives in this gilded jail.

 

When Ahmed died of typhoid fever, Mustafa, despite being retarded or perhaps because of it was installed to the throne. Another first, it was the first time in Osman house history, a Osman brother was made Sultan instead of a son. His rule didn’t last long.

Kösem Sultan

After a few months the confused Sultan was sent on a hunting trip only to come back and find he had been deposed by his nephew Osman II and Mustafa was sent back to the golden cage. (This was the first deposing in Ottoman history).

 

The young Osman II was then himself deposed and killed.

Mustafa was dragged back out of the golden cage, re-enthroned, only to be deposed again by his other nephew Murad IV.

 

Mustafa was finally sent happily back to his safe Golden Cage where he could read in peace…before eventually being strangled by the silk rope.

 

The cause of all this conflict really lay between the Janissaries (special soldiers) and the Greek beauty Maypeyker Kösem.

Kösem, the widow of Ahmed I and mother of Murad IV was in league with the eunuch corp. Kösem and the eunuchs ruled through the mentally disabled Mustafa, while the Janissaries ruled through Osman II… whom they decided they didn’t like after all, and killed.

 

It was a time of firsts, this being the first regicide in Ottoman history. (When the Janissaries killed Osman II they killed him by “compression of his testicles”, “a mode of execution reserved by custom to the Ottoman sultans.” They also cut off his ear and sent it to his mother Hadice show who was in charge.)

 

Kösem took the opportunity presented by the death of Osman II. Her oldest son Murad IV was only 11, still a minor, so when he took the throne, the seductive Kösem became official regent of the Ottoman Empire.

 

Murad IV

Murad IV’s rule (and his mother Kösem’s by proxy) was iron fisted. He banned alcohol, tobacco, and coffee on pain of death. He also returned to the practice of brother killing, (and son killing if Mama Kösem was behind it) offing a couple of his brethren. But Murad IV didn’t kill all his brothers. History tends to repeat itself.

 

Like his father Ahmet with his retarded brother Mustafa, Murad IV also had a slightly weird brother whom he allowed to live. His name was Ibrahim.

 

Murad IV was determined not to make the same mistake his father had with Mustafa. Murad IV ordered that upon his death, his weird brother Ibrahim was to be killed as well. 

All fine and well, except had these orders be carried out the Osman line would have ended. It seems Murad IV would have rather seen the end of the house of Osman, and then has the mad Ibrahim as Sultan.

 

Murad died at the age of 27 of cirrhosis of the liver (Ironically, the prohibition crazy Murad may have been a closet alcoholic).

As Murad IV lay on his death bed his mother Kösem lied to him, saying that Ibrahim had already been strangled. Happy at the news, Murad IV died smiling.

 

After Murad’s death Kösem promptly placed Ibrahim;- (The Mad Sultan on to the throne).

Ibrahim was in no shape to rule a nation. Odd to begin with, it didn’t help that he had spent his entire life living as a prisoner in the golden cage, staring longingly out the unreachable stained glass windows.

 

Inside the prince was kept company by a few deaf-mute servants, and a couple of harem girls, barren ones, to prevent him from fathering possible heirs to the throne.(The servants were, by default, prisoners as well.)

 

Ibrahim also lived under the constant and reasonable fear of deaf-mute eunuchs throttling him with a silk rope. So it makes sense that when guards showed up to bring him to the throne, he refused to go, thinking it was a trick.

 

Ibrahim wouldn’t even open the door until Murad’s body was produced. When Ibrahim was finally convinced that he was not about to be garroted to death, he ran deliriously through the halls screaming “the butcher is dead”, “the butcher of the empire is dead.”

 

Suddenly out of the cage and the supreme ruler of an enormous empire, Ibrahim barely knew what to do with himself. While his mom did most of the actual decision making, Ibrahim busied himself with his new harem.

 

He first decorated his room with mirrors so that he might get a better view of himself in action. He then called the girls in.


One time the Mad Sultan saw the beautiful daughter of the Grand Mufti, the empire’s highest religious authority, and asked for her hand in marriage. 


Her father, aware of Ibrahim’s depravities, urged his daughter to decline. So the Mad Sultan ordered her kidnapped and carried to his palace, where he ravished her for days, before returning her to her father.

 

Ibrahim’s harem was full of young, nubile, girls from around the world. But after a while, the slender things from Russia and the Balkans didn’t do it for him anymore.

 

One day Ibrahim happened to see the genitalia of a female cow.

Pleased by what he saw, Ibrahim had a gold cast made and, hoping to find a human match to the bovine privates, he ordered his aides to “bring him the fattest woman in the world.” They did their best, finding a 300 pound Armenian girl named “Sugar Cube” (Sechir Para or more literally translated “Sweet Lump of Sugar”).

 

Ibrahim loved her, and spent many a night curled in her large arms. It wasn’t long until the big woman had gained power over Ibrahim equal only to that of her girth.

 

It would be Sugar Cube who would spell the final downfall of Ibrahim the Mad.

Sugar Cube told Ibrahim that a member of his concubine was sleeping with an outsider and conspiring against him. The paranoid Ibrahim, decided to clean house and had the majority of his harem, some 280 girls, tied up in sacks and drowned in the river.

 

This worried his mother Kösem, who was actually ruling the foundering empire. Concerned about Sugar Cube’s rising power, she in turn had Sugar Cube strangled. The palace was indeed a rough place.

 

They knew her everywhere as “the Filthy Sultana.” One day one of her many enemies caught up with her and poisoned her coffee with chopped hair and ground glass, causing a long and painful death.”)

 

With permission from Kösem, the Grand Mufti whose daughter Ibrahim had had his way with, lead the overthrow.

Between heavy taxes, the mismanaged wars, and with a Venetian blockade reducing the Ottoman capital to starvation, discontent boiled over. In 1648, a popular revolt broke out, and an angry mob tore Ibrahim’s Grand Vizier to pieces.

 

Ibrahim was deposed in favor of his 6 year old son, and a fatwa was then issued for the Mad Sultan’s execution, which was carried out by strangulation.

 

Ibrahim was deposed, sent back to the golden cage, and 10 days later his worst fears were realized at the hands of a deaf-mute eunuch wielding a silk rope. This time Ibrahim met his end gleefully, assuming that the guards were there to reinstate him as Sultan.

Murder of Sultan Ibrahim I (The Mad Sultan)


This would mark the end of Ibrahim the Mad’s rule, but not the rule of his mother Kösem.

After Ibrahim’s death, she had Ibrahim’s son, and her grandson, Mehmed IV put onto the throne with the words “Here he is! See what you can do with him!” While Mehmed IV was still a child, Ibrahim apparently stabbed him in the face, and tried to drown him.

 

An Eunuch in Hrem

In a certain irony, Kösem’s reign would finally come to an end at the hands of another woman. Her daughter-in-law and Mehmed’s IV mother Turhan had Kösem killed and started her own rule of the Ottoman Empire. (She was the only other woman besides Kösem to officially rule the Ottoman Empire.)

 

Murder in Topkapi Palace by an Eunuch

For a woman who ruled the empire for well over 30 years Kösem met with a very ignoble fate.

When she was confronted by the eunuchs sent to kill her “she went mad, stuffıng her precious jewels into her pockets and fleeing through the intricate mazes of the harem, which she knew better than anyone.

Kösem Sultan

She crept into a small cabinet, hoping that the eunuchs would go past her and the janissaries come to the rescue. But a piece of her skirt caught in the door, betraying her hiding place.

 

The eunuchs dragged her out, tearing her clothes, stealing her jewels. She fought; but she was an old woman now. One of her attackers strangled her with a curtain. Her naked, bleeding body was dragged outside and flaunted before the janissaries.”

Murder of Kösem Sultan

The rule of Ibrahim the Mad, Kösem and the period surrounding it, marked a turning point in the Ottoman Empire, and the beginning of its decline. 

 

The End


Disclaimer–Blogger has prepared this short write up with help of materials and images available on net. Images on this blog are posted to make the text interesting. The materials and images are the copy right of original writers. The copyright of these materials are with the respective owners. Blogger is thankful to original writers.

 

  

 











































































 

 

 

 

Friday 28 May 2021

Nimrud The Mighty king: Challenged Allah to Fight: Was killed by a Tiny Mosquito

Allah (SWT) caused Nimrod’s death with his weakest creation to prove that only the Creator of the Universe is worthy of worship.

 

Nimrod, the one who built the huge Tower at Babylon: “Allah struck at the foundation of their building, and then the roof fell down upon them…”

 

Nimrud built his extensive empire from south to north, indicating a third-millennium BC setting (3000–2000 BC). Therefore, he must have ruled in this region during this period.

 

Like Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him), Ibrahim (peace be upon him) was born at a time when ignorance was at its peak, at Babylon in Iraq during the reign of a tyrant disbeliever Nimrud. He had proclaimed himself to be the Almighty and wanted to prove that there was no God except him.

 

Nimrud was filled with misguidance. He used to term himself as lord of everything. Allah tells us in the Qur’an, how Prophet Ibrahim (peace be upon him) debated with this ignorant ruler to explain that Allah is the Lord of everything that exists.

 

His despotism knew no bounds. He summoned Hazrat Ibrahim (Alaihis Salaam) and said to him, “Tell your Allah that I neither fear Him nor need Him! Go tell Him that the whole world is in awe of me. All people are obedient to my command.

 

If He is the God of heaven, I am God of the earth. Where are His armies? If the sky fell on my troops, they could hold it up with their lances. Tell Him I challenge Him to a battle. He has no say on earth. The whole earth belongs to me; it is my kingdom!”

 

The answer was revealed to Hazrat Ibrahim (Alaihis Salaam): “Let him come to such and such a place, where I shall do battle with him!” The venerable Ibrahim Khaleelullah (Alaihis Salaam) passed the news to Nimrud.

 

On the day appointed, the brigades and regiments assembled on the battlefield, forming themselves in ranks. The Glorified and Exalted Rabb gave His army of mosquitoes their orders, and then sent these humble creatures into action against the proud and stubborn unbeliever who claimed to be deity.

Nimrud
The skies turned black as Nimrud’s horde stood ready for battle. When the order was given, the host of mosquitoes hurled themselves in their hundreds of millions against the army of the enemy of Allah. They filled the soldiers’ mouths, eyes and ears, biting with a vengeance.


 

When the cavalry horses met the mosquitoes’ onslaught, they started to bolt in all directions, unseating their riders as they fled. In the space of half an hour, destruction had overtaken Nimrud’s army, more than a hundred thousand strong.

 

Namrood himself left the battlefield, taking refuge in one of his castles. He thought he had saved his life by stopping up all doors and windows.

 

In spite of the great miracle he had witnessed, he could not bring himself to repent and accept the Oneness of Allah Ta’ala. How could he do so, without overcoming his arrogance and pride? The scoundrel was willfully obstinate in his disbelief.

 

One lame mosquito, with a damaged wing, had been unable to obey the Divine Command to attack this stubborn infidel. It now addresses itself to Allah Ta’ala, saying, “Oh Allah, what a sinful and luckless creature I must be, that you should deprive me of my share in this battle.

 

If only my leg and my wing had been sound, I would have done my bit in fighting this enemy of yours!” Almighty Allah, Lord of the worlds, then gave it the command, “Go now! You destroy that accursed one!”

 

The lame mosquito made its way, limping to the castle where Nimrud was hiding. Getting in through a keyhole, it went and settled on Nimrud’s knee. There it rested, recovering from its exhaustion.

 

Nimrud spotted the insect and tried to kill it, but the mosquito settled on his other knee.

 

As it rested there, it seemed to say, “You once told the venerable Ibrahim (Alaihis Salaam) that you had the power of life and death. You sought to prove it by killing one man and letting another go free. Come, what is stopping you from killing me now?” Nimrud could not kill the insect, no matter how hard he tried.

The Tiny Mosquito
Allah Ta’ala was demonstrating his weakness to him, as if to say, “Unless I will it, you cannot kill! When you killed men by my will, you imagined that you had granted them death. Look, you are a nonentity. You used the kingdom I gave you as a pretext for disobeying me.


 
You are nothing! What has become of the arrogance of yours? Where are your armies? Where is your divinity? Look, you have been conquered by that humble creature of mine, the mosquito. You have been disgraced!”

 

For all his efforts Nimrud still could not kill the mosquito, which now went up inside his nose. Once upon a time, Nimrud had wanted to burn Hazrat Ibrahim (Alaihis Salaam) in the fire, but in that he had also failed. The fire would not burn. Fire is only the secondary cause, the Real Cause being Almighty Allah.

 

The mosquito started eating the membrane of Nimrud’s brain. The tyrant beat his head from rock to rock. Now he had really begun to feel the pain of his defeat. He had felt no sympathy for the hundred thousand soldiers he had left on the battlefield, nor for their bereaved parents.

 

His only thought had been to save his filthy skin and rotten soul by running to hide in his castle; but hiding could not save him from the dreaded claws of death.

How many lives he had slaughtered how many houses he had destroyed, how many brains he had dashed out. Now he was dashing his own head against the rocks and walls; now he was suffering himself the pain he had inflicted on others.

 

Those people who oppress others should take heed of Nimrud’s condition and remember that Allah Ta’ala will give you enough time and respite, but the day His Wrath befalls you then there is no escape. Nimrud appointed salaried officials to hit him on the head with mallets.

The blows gave him a brief respite, since they interrupted the insect’s work. As soon as the mosquito began eating his brain once more, he would cry, “Help! Hit me!” He would get angry with those who did not hit him hard enough, while he increased the salaries of those who were hard hitters.

 

The so called ‘God of the earth’ was being beaten by his own servants. One day, one of these servants wielded the mallet too hard, and Namrood’s evil soul departed. They laid his filthy corpse in the pit of hell which was his grave.

 

We should learn from this incident that arrogance and pride will lead us to nothing but destruction in both the worlds. The more arrogant one is the more disgraced one would end up.

Tower of Babylon

This can be seen from the fact that Nimrud gave himself such a high status that he considered himself as God, yet he was disgracefully defeated by one of the weakest and most humble creatures of Allah Ta’ala.

 

This is the Quadrat of Allah Ta’ala. And the more we remind ourselves of the Power of Allah Ta’ala and His Bounties, the further away arrogance and pride will be from us because we will realize that everything that we have achieved and attained is due to the Blessings that Allah Ta’ala has bestowed upon us, not because of our own doings.

 

May Allah Ta’ala save us from pride and arrogance and may He in His Infinite Mercy grant us the Taufeeq to constantly remind ourselves that “I am Nothing, He is Everything,” Ameen.

 

The End




























Friday 21 May 2021

Travelogue: The last Train No 653 Pamban-Danushkodi To last land of India: Dhanuskodl, The Ghost Town

All the big journeys start from Delhi. So I boarded on Tamil Nadu Exp from Delhi to Chennai. Chennai is about 2100 Km from Delhi. The nearest railway station for Dhanuskodi is Rameshwaram. Being a major town, Rameshwaram is well connected by trains from nearly every corner of Tamil Nadu and even far off places. I boarded Rameswaram Expr which travelled about 600 km to reach Rameshwaram.


Dhanuskodi beach is Located about 18 km southeast of Rameswaram town, Dhanushkodi is a long, windswept surf beach and sandpit which exudes an end-of-the-world feel. At the confluence of the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean,
Dhanushkodi is the last land of India. Dhanushkodi, besides attracting tourists is also a forward outpost of the Indian Navy.

 

Sri Lanka is just 31 kilometers away from Dhanushkodi. Bordered by the Bay of Bengal on one and the Indian Ocean on the other, Dhanushkodi is one of the most spectacular stretches of Tamil Nadu.

 

Dhanushkodi was a busy township with European bungalows, church, temple and even a railway station, custom office, post office school, hospital and other govt offices building.

 

Haunting Story of Dhanushkodi by Tsunami on Night of 1964 December 22

While entering Dhanushkodi railway station, train No.653, Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger, a daily regular service which left Pamban with 110 passengers and 5 railway staff, was only few hundred yards before Dhanushkodi Railway station when it was hit by a massive tidal wave.

 

The entire train was washed away killing all 115 on board. A few meters ahead of Dhanushkodi, the signal failed. With pitch darkness around and no indication of the signal being restored, the driver blew a long whistle and decided to take the risk.

 

Minutes later, a huge tidal wave submerged all the six coaches in deep water. The tragedy that left no survivors also destroyed the Pamban bridge, which connected the mainland of India to Rameshwaram Island. The bridge has now been rebuilt.

 

Information has been received that a portion of the engine is visible six inches above water. With communication virtually cut off, the impact of the cyclone could reach Chennai only after several hours.

 

Before the 1964 storm, there was a train service up to Dhanushkodi called Boat Mail from Madras Egmore (Now Chennai Egmore) and the train linked to a steamer for ferrying travelers to Ceylon.

 

The storm was unique in many ways. It all started with a formation of a depression with its center at 5N 93E in South Andaman Sea on 17 December 1964. On 19 December it intensified into a cyclonic storm.

 

The Rameshwaram storm was not only formed at such low latitude but also intensified into a severe cyclonic storm at about the same latitude is indeed a rare occurrence.

 

After 21 December 1964, its movement was westwards, almost in a straight line, at the rate of 250 miles (400 km) to 350 miles (560 km) per day.

Pamban Bridge

 

Pamban Bridge was also washed away by the high tidal waves in this disaster. Eyewitness accounts recollected of how the surging waters stopped just short of the main temple at Rameshwaram where hundreds of people had taken refuge from the fury of the storm. Following this disaster, the Government of Madras declared the town as Ghost town and unfit for living after the storm. Only few fisherfolks now live there.

 

The route, which once linked India and Sri Lanka on the ‘Boat Mail,’ was never restored, though the remains of the cyclone still stand muted at Dhanushkodi, reminding one of the scale of the destruction wrought by nature that day.

 

Dhanhukodi Beach

During the bumpy ride, Taxi driver pointed us at the remains of the rail tracks covered with sand, and those of the school, the hospital and office buildings. He also shows us the village that includes some 50 households staying in makeshift thatched houses.

 

They say that Bay of Bengal is male in Dhanushkodi and female in Rameswaram, where it embraces Indian Ocean, after devastating seven-km sand strip separating them.

Dhansukodi Bea

 

We roamed around in the village and found some of the fishermen with their boats collecting their catch for the day. We also saw a few women washing clothes near a well and wonder where they get their water from. There seem to be a few wells that have salty water that people use for washing clothes and utensils.

 

Before the 1964 cyclone, Dhanushkodi was a flourishing tourist and pilgrimage town.

Since Ceylon (Now Sri Lanka) is just 19 miles (31 km) away, there were many ferry services between Dhanushkodi and Talaimannar of Ceylon, transporting travelers and goods across the sea. There were hotels, textile shops and dharmshalas catering to these pilgrims and travelers.

Last BSNL Tower of Dhanuskodi Beach

At the “land’s end” terminus of the peninsula to the southeast of Dhanushkodi begins the chain of rocks and islets known as Rama’s Bridge. These lead approximately 19 miles across the Paik Strait to Mannar Island on the northwestern tip of Sri Lanka.

 

I found there a last Mobile Tower of BSNL, which was getting good signals, by which I was connected with my people. Wow; My mobile was receiving signals of Sri Lanka.  

Dhanuskodi as in Hindu Mythology

The name Dhanushkodi sounds musical. In local parlance, Dhanushkodi means ‘Bow’s end’. The gently shaped shoreline here does indeed suggest a bow. 

Hindu scriptures says that at the request of Vibhishana, brother of Ravan and ally of Rama, Rama broke the Sethu with one end of his bow and hence the name Dhanushkodi, Dhanush meaning Bow and Kodi meaning end.

 

It is also said that Rama marked this spot for Setu with one end of his famous bow. Bath in holy Sethu at the junction of the two seas normally precedes the pilgrimage to Rameswaram. A series of rocks and islets found in a line are shown as remnants of the ancient Setu also called as Rama’s Bridge.

A village WOMAN of Dhanuskodi Beach

 

A local Man at Dhanuskodi Beach

It is said that Pilgrimage to Kashi will be completed only after the worship at Rameswaram besides a holy bath in Dhanushkodi at the Confluence of Mahodadhi (Bay of Bengal) and Ratnakara (Indian Ocean). Setu is the Sanskrit word to denote a bridge or causeway. It has now acquired a special significance to mean the bridge across the ocean constructed by Ram to reach Lanka.

 

A memorial erected near the Dhanushkodi bus stand reads as follows:

“A cyclone storm with high velocity winds and high tidal waves hit Dhanushkodi town from 22 December 1964 midnight to 25 December 1964 evening causing heavy damages and destroying the entire town of Dhanushkodi”

 

At Dhanushkodi one can see the deep and rough waters of Indian Ocean meeting the shallow and calm waters of Bay of Bengal. Since the sea is shallow here, one can walk into Bay of Bengal and witness the colorful corals, fishes, seaweeds, star fishes and sea cucumber etc.

 

Entering the ghost town, I was caught in a time warp.

Exploring the ruins along the desolate coastline, I found a roofless, battered edifice, which looked like it must have once been a church. Inside, a pedestal, which could have been the altar, stood intact. A sense of peace overwhelmed me as I stood inside, gazing at the unscathed altar.

Ruins of  A Church

 

At Main land of now a ghost town Dhanushkodi beach: The last south eastern land of India.

I could imagine the pews packed with a choral-singing congregation and the church resonating with prayers and the pastor preaching sermons during a Sunday morning mass.

 

Moving on I found that the sand had gobbled up everything in the course of time except for the crumbling walls of a few scattered buildings with exposed bricks that stand as mute witness to the terrible tragedy in which a storm washed away this hamlet.

 

I came across the four-pillared structure of a water tank and stumbled upon the Dhanushkodi railway station, a solid stone structure that is a sad reminder of the ferocity of the storm and the havoc created by the raging sea.

 

Further to the tank are some ruins of the quarters for railwaymen. In some places the meter gauge tracks were discernible half-hidden under the sand. These were the rails that carried the Boat Mail to Dhanushkodi.

 

There is a big building that was once a school, two-thirds of the insides strangely covered with mounds of sand. It would have housed school kids once, most of who were probably washed away that fateful day in the storm.

 

Strolling among the ruins, I could not believe that the now abandoned village was once a bustling center for travel and trade, connecting India and Sri Lanka with a railway and ferry service.

Ruins of Railway Station

 

I just walked on the beach, went little inside the water, to the end of the peninsula where the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean meet. I could gaze upon Adam’s Bridge, the chain of reefs, sandbanks and the islets that almost connect Sri Lanka with India. There was no turbulence, only peaceful blue Bay of Bengal.

 

The winds were so soothing, full of moisture, when it touches; I felt I was never touched by something so pure. The water was clean, the sand was cleaner. What a fun adventurous ride that was, although the water is shallow but still you feel the thrill of going inside the sea, the boats on the left  and lot of seagulls flying. The winds were so soothing, full of moisture, when it touches; I felt I was never touched by something so pure. The water was clean, the sand was cleaner.

 

It was absolutely wonderful! Seeing two oceans meet is a heart-warming sight and the feeling. Water from two oceans was brushing under our feet … amazing. I had been dying to see this place.This point of this tour just made my entire trip-- A golden memory.

 

If you have the ears to listen the silence too. You may hear the sounds of cries, the recitements of the prayers in the remnants of the Catholic Church, the noises from the broken pieces of busy railway station and the port office.

The End