This Travelogue of
Dhanushkodi - The
haunting real story of a ghost town is in continuation to my previous blog “Pamban Bridge: A Hair Raising
Train Ride to Rameswaram”.
https://www.myishasmehfil.com/2018/09/pamban-bridge-hair-raising-train-ride.html
Finally we were standing at
railway plate form of Ramesvaram. Before exit from Railway Station we refreshed
us with hot coffee and some snaks. There
were plenty of autos available outside station.Hired an auto for advance booked
hotel Agnee Teertham (Tamil Nadu Tourism Corporation Hotel) .
Hotel Teertham is standing
just at one side of Arab Sagar at a short distance from Agnee Teertham Mandir. After
dinner in dinning hall of hotel ,other members slept. I took my camera and
walked to Agni teertham Mandir. It was dark late night but, many devotees were
sill there to perform religious rituals.I clicked some shots and soon back to
my room.
This blog is only over a trip to
Dhanusukodi now a haunted ghost town, so I will not waste time in telling about Rameshvaram. Next day after breakfast
,we left for Dhanusukodi. Hotel manager was a nice man ,he arranged a taxi ride
to and fro to Dhanusukodi beach only for Rs 1500/=
Dhanushkodi was almost inaccessible till a new road
that runs along the ocean was built. It extends all the way from Rameswaram to
Arichal Munai or Land's End, the closest point to Sri Lanka on Indian Territory
and a point flanked by the ocean on all three sides.After half hr journey of 20 Km,we saw a long stretch
of Bay of Bengal, running just parallel to road.As we drove nearer to
Dhanusukodi ,this lining of Bay of Bengal was coming closer and closer to road.It
was life time ride ,I was seeing Indian Ocean on other side of road.wow…..now
the road was in between two seas.Dhanushkodi is a Beautiful place lies as a land of sand in the center of
roaring ocean (Indian Ocean) and a silent sea (Bay of Bengal). Dhanushkodi
fills the visitors with the feel of awe by its spectacular view of clear Blue
Sea, Roaring tides, Beach and the Lonely Devastated Ghost land.
Dhanushkodi in Mythology
As per Hindu mythology, this is
the place from where Lord Hanuman along with his army built a stone bridge (Ram
Setu) to cross the sea to reach Lanka (now Sri Lanka) to rescue Sita from the
demon king, Ravana. Thereafter the war, Lord Rama broke the bridge
with the tip of his bow. The word Dhanushkodi can be split into dhanush (bow) and kodi (the end)
literally it means “The end of the bow” in Tamil language.
Sri
Lanka is just 31 kilometers away from Dhanushkodi. Bordered by the Bay of Bengal
on one and the Indian Ocean on the other, Dhanushkodi, some 20 kilometers away
from Rameshwaram, is one of the most spectacular stretches of Tamil Nadu.
Devastation: Haunting real story of Dhanushkodi by Tsunami on Night
of 1964 December 22
If you have the ears to listen the silence too. You may hear the sounds
of cries, the recitements of the prayers in the remnants of the Catholic
Church, the noises from the broken pieces of busy railway station and the port
office.
It was raining heavily… Nobody in the Dhanushkodi city realized that as
a signal of Storm. On December 21, satellite images showed clouds from the
storm covered 965 Km on the sky.The Storm got intense and moves towards the
Gulf of mannar region.Fishermen of Dhanushkodi were warned by government not to
fish inside the sea,
All the places of Dhanushkodi were filled with Darkness…The heavy rain
slowed down and, the clouds started drizzled the drops. People believed that
the things would get normal the next day, and went for sleep with the hope
filled minds.
On that night at 23.55 hours a tsunami hitted Dhanushkodi
railway station, the train No.653, Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger, a daily
regular service which left Pamban with 110 passengers and 5 railway staff, was
only few hundred yards before Dhanushkodi Railway station when it was hit by a
massive tidal wave.
The entire train was washed away killing all 115 on board. A
few meters ahead of Dhanushkodi, the signal failed. With pitch darkness around
and no indication of the signal being restored, the driver blew a long whistle
and decided to take the risk.Minutes later, a huge tidal wave submerged all the six
coaches in deep water. The tragedy that left no survivors also destroyed the
Pamban Bridge, which connected the mainland of India to Rameshwaram Island.The
waves were energetic.
They say the sea is
male in Dhanushkodi and female in Rameswaram. The pairyearns to embrace each
other and devastates the seven-km sand strip separating them. Dhanushkodi was a
busy township with European bungalows, church, temple and even a railway
station. There were many ferry
services between Dhanushkodi and Talaimannar of Ceylon (now called Sri Lanka),
transporting travelers and goods across the sea. There were hotels, textile
shops and dharmashalas catering to these pilgrims and travelers.
Dhanushkodi, in those
days, also had a railway station, a small railway hospital, a higher secondary
school, a post office, customs and port offices etc. One can still see the sad
remains of the railway line, some of the ruins of the offices and the hospital
and the old school, which is reused now for the 500 inhabitants who continue to
stay on the island.
Before the cyclone, there
was a train service up to Dhanushkodi called Boat Mail from Madras Egmore (Now
Chennai Egmore), which would halt on the south-eastern side of Dhanushkodi
township, where a waiting steamer transported passengers to Sri Lanka.
At
Main land of Dhanushkodi beach: The last south eastern tip of Indian soil.
Soon we reached the check-post.Our jeep was
running rouh and jerky on a land mix
with the mud, sand and water .We reached
Dhanushkodi old town after one hour travelling.
A little ahead, we come across the
ruins of a water tank, church, post office, custom office and other buildings,
once a popular town.All these were totally washed away by a deadly cyclone in
1964. The town has been rendered unfit for living and is a ghost town, but a
few fishermen still live here in tents and huts.
The
ruined buildings of the church, temple, school and homes around were silent
testimony to the great cyclone. Lost in the surrounding, I almost tripped over
only to find a glimpse of what appeared to be the lost train track concealed
under sand leading to a ruined structure which has seen busy days as the local
station.
It was unbelievable, the sea was
so blue and so was the sky. The sand was so white, the beach was very clean, I
never seen anything like this in India. I had to walk for two hours to get to
the place where it used to be “Danushkodi Station”. I couldn’t find any sign of
the train tracks, except a couple little piece of metal sticking out of the
ground.
I finally reached the South-Eastern tip after a
brisk but a little long walk. It was absolutely wonderful! Seeing two oceans
meet is a heart-warming sight and the feeling. Water from two oceans was
brushing under our feet … amazing. I had been dying to see this place.This
point of this tour just made my entire trip-- A golden memory.
Now it was time to say good-bye to the blue seas and white
sands. I recalled the lines of this old ever green song of Film Madhumati that
seems fit for this place.It is real story
of
Dhanushkodi, which is now a haunted ghost town due to Tsunami on 22nd
December 1964.
Aise veerane mein ek din
ghut ke mar jayenge hum
jitna ji chaahe pukaro
phir nahin aayenge hum.
ghut ke mar jayenge hum
jitna ji chaahe pukaro
phir nahin aayenge hum.
Written photographed and posted by Engr. Maqool
Akram